В СВЕТОВЕН МАЩАБ СЕ ТЪРГУВАТ НАД 30 ВИДА ЛАВАНДУЛОВИ МАСЛА И БЛЕНДИ, НО САМО ФРЕНСКОТО И БЪЛГАРСКОТО СА ПРЕДПОЧИТАНИ ЗА ПАРФЮМЕРИЙНАТА ПРОМИШЛЕНОСТ. - презентация

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2 В СВЕТОВЕН МАЩАБ СЕ ТЪРГУВАТ НАД 30 ВИДА ЛАВАНДУЛОВИ МАСЛА И БЛЕНДИ, НО САМО ФРЕНСКОТО И БЪЛГАРСКОТО СА ПРЕДПОЧИТАНИ ЗА ПАРФЮМЕРИЙНАТА ПРОМИШЛЕНОСТ.

3 БЪЛГАРИЯ ИМА ТРАДИЦИИ В ПРОИЗВОДСТВОТО НА КАЧЕСТВЕНО ЛАВАНДУЛОВО МАСЛО, ДЪЛЖАЩО СЕ НА ВИДА ЛАВАНДУЛА, ПОЧВЕНОКЛИМАТИЧНИТЕ УСЛОВИЯ И ТЕХНОЛОГИЯТА НА ПРОИЗВОДСТВО Мащабната научна работа с лавандулата през миналия век е довела до утвърждаване параметрите на дестилация и екстракция. Главен принос има Института по розата и етеричномаслените култури.

4 В ГЛОБАЛЕН МАЩАБ НАУЧНИТЕ НАПРАВЛЕНИЯ В ИЗСЛЕДВАНЕТО НА ЛАВАНДУЛОВО МАСЛО СА СЛЕДНИТЕ: Оптимизиране дестилацията при лавандулата Екстракция с втечнени газове Анализ на ароматичните продукти Автентичност на лавандулово масло Биологични възможности Безопасност

5 Приложение на ел.магнитни вълни (microwave) Третирането на суровината по време на дестилация или общо загряване на водата за дестилация с облъчване на материала води до значително съкращаване времето на извличане на етеричното масло (5 – 15 min). Добивът и състава на маслото не се променят. Ефекта се дължи на по-бързото разкъсване на етеричномаслените жлези (Iriti et al Histo-chemistry and scanning elecron microscopy of lavender glandular trichomes following conventional and microwave- assisted hydrodistillation of EO: a comparatove study. Flavour&Fragrance J., 21, ; Sahraoui et. Al Improved microwavw steam distillation apparatus for isolation of essential oils: comparision with conventional steam distillation. J.of Chromatography A, 1210,2, ; Chemat et al Microwave accelerated steam distillation of essential oil from lavender: A rapid, clean and enviromentally friendly approach. Analytica Chimica Acta, 555, 157 – 160) В суровината След 30 min. парна дестилация След 6 min. дестилация с MW третиране

6 Нов апарат за дестилация Парната риза предотвратява конденза на парата по материала и загубата на водоразтворими съставки (Masango, Cleaner production of essential oils by steam distillation. J.of Cleaner Production, 12, 833 – 839)

7 ЕКСТРАКЦИЯ С ВТЕЧНЕНИ ГАЗОВЕ В зависимост от налягането (подкритичен или свръхкритичен СО 2 ), температурата, продължителността и модела на екстракция, добивът продукт може да достигне 90 %. Прилагането на ултразвук (озвучаване) подобрява условията за извличане. Основна характеристика на получените етерични масло, конкрет и абсолю е два до шест пъти по-високо съдържание на естери (вкл. линалилацетат). Този факт се дължи на предотвратяване хидролизата, която не може да бъде избегната при парната дестилация. (Akgun et al., Extraction and Modeling of Lavender Flower Essential Oil Using Supercritical Carbon Dioxide. Ind.Eng.Chem. Res.39, ; Bernard et al Two-stage production of the oil of Lavandula angustifolia Mill. J.Ess.Oil Res, 1, ; GhoreishI et al Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extraction of Essential Oil From Iranian Lavender Flower; Reverchon&Porta Supercritical CO 2 extraction and fractionation of Lavender Essential Oil and Waxes. J.Agric. Chem., 43, ; Rezazadeh et al Comparison of Super Critical Fluid Extraction and Hydrodistillation Methods on Lavander΄s Essential Oil Composition and Yield. J.Med.Plants, 7, 63 – 68 )

8 Химични анализи. Автентичност Няма данни за нови съставки на маслото Натуралитета на лавандуловото масло може да се докаже чрез т.н. хирална чистота – количественото отношение на стереоизомерите при линалол, линалилацетат, камфор и линалолоксид Наличието на следи от дихидролиналилацет е знак за добавен синтетичен естер (Baser et al., Enantiomeric Distribution of Linalool, Linalylacetate and Camphor in Bulgarian Lavender Oil. J.Ess.Oil Res.,17, ; Özek et al Enantiomeric Distribution of sSme Linalool Containing Essential Oil and Their Biological Activities. Rec. Nat. Prod., 4, ; Butl er atl al Enantiomeric Composition of Essential Oils by Chiral GC/MS. A Guideto the analysis of chiral compounds by GC ww.restek.com ) Salvia microstegia Lavandula angustifolia ( S)-(+)-linalool (R)-(–)-linalool Linalyl acetate Linalooloxide (3S)-(+) / (3R)-(-) linalool

9 Биологични възможности.... Лавандулово масло Аналгетичен и ранозаздравяваващ ефект при външни рани. Противовъзпалителен, противонекрозисен ефект Аромотерапия: седативен, антидепресивен, подобряващ съня, поведенчески проблеми : Мощен антибактериален и антигъбен агент Инхибира кожни алергични реакции Антиканцерогенен и антимутагенен ефект Биологичен пестицид, репелент Антиоксидантен ефект и протектор при UV и γ-радиация Сърдечносъдова система (кръвно налягане, сърдечна честота, пулс) Ментални проблеми

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Monoterpene-induced molecular responses in Arabidopsis thaliana. Phytochemistry 2008; 69: 1838– Munoz-Bertomeu J, Arrillaga I, Ros R, Segura J. Up-regulation of 1-deoxy- D-xylulose-5-phosphate synthase enhances production of essential oils in transgenic spike lavender. Plant Physiol 2006; 142: 890– Investigation of Antioxidant Property and Protective Effect of Lavandula Angustifolia Mill. after Radiation Yanka Karamalakova,1* Jyoti Sharma,2 Galina Nikolova,1 Stanko Stanev,3 Rajesh Arora,2,4 Veselina Gadjeva,1 and Antoaneta Zheleva1

11 Безопасност Няма ограничения от IFRA за приложението му в парфюмерията и козметиката. Практически липса на токсичност (Остра орална токсичност LD 50 = 4250 mg/kg и остра кожна токсичност LD 50 = 5000 mg/kg) При употреба във фармацията има изискване за хирална чистота и пределни стойности на пероксидото число (до 20), заложено като гаранция за стабилност, правилно получаване и съхранение (EUPh) С нарастване случаите на контактни дерматити, причинени от парфюмни продукти, се появиха изследвания за евентуалните проблеми при постоянен контакт с лавандулово масло или на основните му съставки – линалол и линалил ацетат. Става въпрос основно за окислени (стари) или недобре съхранявани масла. Реакциите са провокирани от лесното окисление на кислородсъдържащите съставки (лавандуловото масло няма естествена защита срещу автоокисление). Най-голям риск от развиване на такъв вид алергия има при ароматерапевтите, козметолозите и домакините. Линалол – като най-често срещана съставка в ПК на препарати за бита По мнение на Научния комитет по безопасност на потребителите (SCCS) лавандуловото масло трябва да бъде третирано като еквивалентно на индивидуалните му съставки, доказани алергени (линалол, линалилацетатат). Това ще доведе до задължително изписване на етикета, че парфюмната композиция или продукта съдържа лавандулово масло.

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