The gravitational forces of the moon and sun on the water causes the tides.. The moon, being nearest, has the greatest effect even though the sun is the larger of the two. High tides are generated on the sides of the Earth nearest to and farthest from the moon What causes tides?
During new and full moon phases the moon, sun, and Earth are aligned causing a greater gravitational pull on the Earth. This results in higher high tides and lower low tides.
Still-Water Line - The level of the ocean if it were flat without any waves. Crest - The highest part of the wave above the still- water line. Trough - The lowest part of the wave below the still- water line Wave Height - The vertical distance between the crest and the trough. Wavelength - The horizontal distance between each crest or each trough.
Wave Period - The time it takes for two successive waves to pass a particular point. For example, it you are standing on a pier and start a stopwatch as the crest of a wave passes and then stop the stopwatch as the crest of the next wave passes, you have measured the wave period. Wave Frequency - The number of waves that pass a particular point in a given time period. Amplitude - The amplitude is equal to one-half the wave height or the distance from either the crest or the trough to the still-water line.